Monday, December 8, 2008

Nitrate Update

My nitrate measured well below 0.2 mg/L tonight. The lowest my Salifert kit will test is 0.2. A clear sample would mean 0 mg/L. I was able to detect a very slight amount of pink. It was barely perceptible.

After posting about my rapid nitrate reduction on the 3reef forum and reading the responses I became a little worried that the 6500K bulbs would encourage too much algae growth in the tank. I decided to reduce the "on time" of these bulbs from 9 hours/day to 5. I'll keep measuring the nitrate level and observing the effect of the reduced light on the small amount of algae in the tank and my corals. The Xenia is pulsing extremely rapidly, even at night. I'm concerned it will slow down once the amount of light is reduced. That may not be a bad thing because it is spreading quite rapidly and I'm afraid it may some day want to take over the tank.

I did some aquascaping when I added my dead piece of live rock back into the tank. One of the Xenia colonies got moved a bit. I also created a flat ledge that I moved my open brain coral to that is about mid height in the tank. The open brain hasn't opened completely yet. It expands slightly in the morning but that's it. Now that the nitrate level is down I'm not sure what else to try so I decided to move it higher in the tank where it can get more light. Hopefully, this helps.

Resurrecting Live Rock

Yesterday I put what used to be a piece of live rock back in my tank. I removed it in January because it had an infestation of bubble algae that was spreading. You can read the original post here. It was really a coral skeleton with many branches and a lot of surface area. I bleached it for a few days and rinsed it several times in dechlorinated water. I let it sit out for a couple of weeks. It's now back in the tank. I placed it under some other live rock so it doesn't stand out as badly as it would if were on top. I wonder how long until it is encrusted with coraline.

I also have some old rock that someone gave me from their SW tank years ago when they gave me a used 75 gal tank. I decided it was time to turn the pieces that I could tell were coral skeletons into LR too. Those pieces are soaking in bleach now. Lots of the pieces have dried up hair algae on them. I'm not sure what the other pieces are so I'll probably throw them out.

Friday, December 5, 2008

How to Reduce Nitrates in Reef Tanks by Increasing Illumination

I believe I have reduced the Nitrate level in my tank dramatically from 25 mg/L down to 0.2 mg/L simply by adding four spiral compact fluorescent bulbs from the hardware store. This post describes in detail all the steps I've taken to reduce my Nitrate level. The chart below illustrates my Nitrate measurements and is annotated with the dates of various things that I tried along the way. Click on the chart to enlarge.

From Paul's Reef

I've been recording my tank parameters since July 1st of this year. I have been most interested in reducing my Nitrate level. The Nitrate level in my tank was staying around 25 mg/L for several months. The level didn't go down by reducing feedings to once a day. Finally, I broke down and added a sump and refugium with a deep sand bed on August 2'nd. That really did nothing to reduce my Nitrate level over the course of a month. I added Chaeto algae and illuminated my refugium on a reverse light cycle on 10/9. On 10/25 the Nitrate level was still at 25 mg/L. Around this time I became concerned that my light output may be too low. The tank looked dim compared to my refugium which was lit with a single 6500K spiral CF fluorescent bulb. Perhaps some of the problems I was experiencing were due to low light levels rather than elevated Nitrate levels. Being on a budget I decided to purchase four 26W 6500K spiral CF bulbs from Lowes along with four clip-0n shop light fixtures with reflectors. So, by going the cheap route I was able to add 104W of daylight illumination for about $30. These were installed at the back of the tank on October 25'th. At the same time I ordered replacement PC bulbs for my hood. The replacement bulbs were installed on 10/29. All the while I continued to measure the Nitrate level as shown in the graph above.

The bulb I'm using is shown below. It is a 26W 6500K Bright Effects bulb purchased from Lowe's. It has the numbers BE26T3/D and E170197 printed on the label.
From Paul's Reef - Apr 15, 2008

The picture below shows the bulb and hood clipped to the front of the tank for easy viewing.
From Paul's Reef - Apr 15, 2008


Here is what the tank looks like with the extra bulbs and clip on fixtures.
From Paul's Reef - Apr 15, 2008


So what does the graph show? It shows that four days after installing the four spiral bulbs at the back of the tank over my live rock my Nitrate level dropped from 25 mg/L to 10 mg/L. At this point I installed the new PC fluorescents. Three days later, on 11/1, the Nitrate level had dropped to 5 mg/L. Up to this point this was the lowest I had ever measured. Five days later the Nitrate level was cut in half again and were reduced to 2.5 mg/L. Another 5 days later the Nitrates dropped to 1 mg/L. The Nitrate levels have continued to drop and are now at 0.2 mg/L.

In all the reading I did about techniques for reducing Nitrate I never came across anybody recommending increasing illumination. I read about using a deep sand bed and using macro algae such as Chaeto. I also read about Nitrate sponges and Nitrate coils. I tried the DSB and Chaeto and did not see a reduction. You can argue that I did not try the Chaeto for a long enough time period. True, it's possible that the Chaeto helped. However, I would have expected to see a gradual decline beginning with the introduction of the Chaeto. However, two weeks after the introduction of the Chaeto the Nitrate level stubbornly remained at 25 mg/L.

The chart, however, suggests that the catalyst for the Nitrate reduction was the addition of the cheap spiral 6500K CF bulbs. After the introduction of these bulbs the Nitrate levels literally fell off a cliff. But why?

It is my belief that the algae that was already in my tank took off after the additional lighting was added. The color of my live rock noticeably changed with the increase in illumination. Looking closely at the rock you can see very fine green algae growing over the coraline. This algae is remaining very short and well kept and provides natural grazing food for my tangs. I do not have any hair algae growing that I can see although I did fear this would happen. At times fine bubbles can now be seen over my rock clinging to the fine algae. I'm not sure of the origin of these bubbles. I do not believe they are microbubbles that are captured by the algae. Perhaps they are nitrogen bubbles generated anaerobically in the live rock and trapped by the algae. Perhaps they are produced by the algae. Is it possible that the algae is reducing the flow of oxygenated water to the rock and encouraging anaerobic denitrifying bacteria to thrive.

From Paul's Reef

This fine algae which has a lot of live rock surface area to grown on may be absorbing the Nitrate. The tangs are keeping the algae manicured. One would think that the Nitrate would be reintroduced in the tangs' waste. Perhaps it is but it is being quickly reabsorbed by the algae to repeat the cycle. Is it possible I have created a self-sustaining ecosystem?

Some might suggest the the reduction of nitrate occurring with the additional lighting is strictly coincidental. Twenty years of engineering experience has taught me that true coincidences are rather rare. Usually, there is some causal relationship between the two observations.

I would encourage others with Nitrate problems to try the simplest approach first. There is nothing simpler and cheaper than adding 6500K spiral bulbs from Lowes or Home Depot to the back of your tank. This is certainly cheaper and faster than building a refugium. Having some shop lights clipped to the back of your tank may not provide you with the best look. Eventually, after you are convinced it works, you can build a nicer hood. If your tank responds as mine did you may have the results you are looking for in about four days.

I'd be interested in knowing your experiences. Please send me an email at pguidarini@yahoo.com.

Thursday, December 4, 2008

Mushrooms Clones

Here is a macro photo of part of my mushroom colony. These are really anemones and not corals. I've seen them reproduce simply by stretching their foot and leaving a piece behind. It only takes a few days for the piece that was left behind to take the shape of a small mushroom clone.
Canon Rebel Xti, Canon EF 100mm f2.8 USM Macro

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

Hey Crabman

I received a black Mithrax hitchhiker crab with my first live rock purchase more than a year ago. The most I usually ever see of this crab is a black claw reaching out from under a rock and scraping algae off some other rock and bringing the claw to its mouth. On occasion it gets a little more daring to go after some tasty piece of algae. On these rare occasions some more of its body is visible but never more than half of it. Now this thing has gotten big. Tonight I saw it quickly dash across the ceiling of a cave. It is at least 3 inches across. While stretching to cross the ceiling of the cave I swear it was 5 inches from end to end. It kind of reminds me of a tarantula because it has extremely hairy legs.



This crab is very fast and very very skittish. The slightest movement outside the tank causes it to scurry away - quickly. It is extremely fast. Because it is so skittish it is next to impossible to get a good picture of this guy. These pictures of it attacking my Koralia powerhead are the best pictures I have been able to take of it so far. You need to click on the one above and zoom in on the one above to really see it.




Its claws seem to be smooth on the inside, lacking any serrations. It appears to be built strictly for eating algae. I have read some of the debate about crabs on line that tend to reply that the only place for Mithrax crabs, emerald aside, is in your refugium. I haven't seen this guy do any evil so I'm going to leave him in the tank for now. I don't think I can get him out even if I wanted to. Hopefully, he doesn't develop an appetite for toadstool leathers.

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Toadstool Time Lapse

Here is a time lapse vide of my Toadstool Leather going to sleep for the night. The video was composed by taking a picture every 30 seconds over the course of two hours. This coral seems to anticipate the lights going out. It starts to pull in its polyps about an hour before the lights go out. It does the reverse in the morning and extends its polyps before the lights turn on.


Monday, December 1, 2008

Better Get a Bucket

I perform a water change about every two weeks. I replace about 15 gallons per change, or about 20%. Nitrates are looking great at 0.5 ppm but the trace elements need to be replenished. I always use RO/DI water and have been using Reef Crystals since July. I used the last of my Reef Crystals on this last water change and will now be going back to Coralife salt until I finish off that salt. The Coralife for some reason comes in 3 separate plastic bags within the 5 gallon bucket. I'm wondering if they are afraid of the contents settling. The partially used open bag has turned into a big piece of rock salt. I'll have to let it dissolve next time a prepare water.

So, last time I performed a water change I noticed that the new water was noticeably clearer than the old water I drained out of the tank. Don't get me wrong, the water in the tank looks really clear. However, the new water when compared against the old looks clearer and bluer. Judge for yourself.

This picture was taken with the flash. The old water is on the right.

From Paul's Reef



This picture was taken without it. Just for fairness and confusion I took this picture from the opposite side of the buckets. Here the old water is obviously on the left.

From Paul's Reef


Based on the color and clarity difference alone it would seem to me that regular water changes are very important. The difference is probably not merely "wafer thin."

In other news, I added activated carbon this evening. I filled an old sock with it and rinsed it in RO/DI water. I added the sock to my overflow box so I can get the most water flowing through it. I must not have rinsed it well enough because my tank looks noticeably darker now. I never really stopped to think about how much slightly dirty water reduces the amount of light reaching your corals.